split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

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siravingmon
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split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by siravingmon »

Hi everyone,

After seven years the polyurethane deck on my quest 135 finally split at the back of the coaming. Looking closely I can see it's just a glue failure in the central seam rather than a tear. Can anyone recommend a good glue that’s appropriate for polyeurethane coated fabric? It’s subject to some tension because of the coaming tubing so I don’t think aqua seal is the right solution

Best wishes
Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, Firstlight 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, KXone Airrow 17, Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416, Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI
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KerryOnKayaks
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Re: split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by KerryOnKayaks »

You don't have a Pakboat patch kit? I got one with my boat that included a little bottle of adhesive. I also have Feathercraft patch kits.

You might want to shoot an email to Alv at Pakboat, but I would think Aquaseal seam repair adhesive ought to work. The guy who sells the kits to make packrafts has it on his site:

https://www.diypackraft.com/shop/

I'd be inclined to cover a split like that (unless I am imagining it incorrectly) with a layover patch to ease the strain along that point. Maybe even reinforced with a second patch on the underside if that is accessible.
Current:
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Pakboat Quest 135
Pakboat Puffin 12
Pakboat Swift 14
Greenland SOF
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Curtis Lady Bug solo canoe
Previous:
Feathercraft Kahuna
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siravingmon
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Re: split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by siravingmon »

Thanks for that Kerry,

Maybe aquaseal is stronger than I thought, and a I think your idea of adding a patch to this high stress area is very sensible. Now if I only I can find my spare patches (I've moved continent twice since I bought my Quest 135.

PS I used my Quest again for the first time in a few years (so many kayaks, so little time...) when I was in Bali over Christmas. It's such an easy kayak to like; I was paddling against a 3 - 3.5 knot coastal current at one stage and still making 0.6 knots progress. Hit a fair bit of semi-submerged wooden debris as well but with no damage. Also tried the new (to me) Kalleq GP from Gearlabs and was very pleased with it. Despite the weight it's the closest performing GP I have vs my small wing paddle, even with a less tiring low angle stroke.
Last edited by siravingmon on Wed Jan 15, 2020 9:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, Firstlight 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, KXone Airrow 17, Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416, Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI
AE Air Fusion Evo wanted, Incept k40 for sale

Alv
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Re: split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by Alv »

I would stitch the area after gluing it. That will reinforce it - in particular if the stitched area is a little longer than the welded seam failure. If you worry about waterproofness, you can solve that with a little adhesive on top of the stitches.

Aquaseal works well, but the repair needs to be under pressure while the adhesive cures. The Clifton adhesive we ship with the repair kits works just as well and does not need the cure time. The downside is that is not widely distributed.

Good luck!
Alv

siravingmon
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Re: split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by siravingmon »

Thanks Alv!

Time to do some research on most effective stitches for joints in tension...
Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, Firstlight 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, KXone Airrow 17, Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416, Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI
AE Air Fusion Evo wanted, Incept k40 for sale

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KerryOnKayaks
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Re: split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by KerryOnKayaks »

Simon: how did your deck repair go?

By the way, for gear repair stitching I have learned over the years to use a longer rather than closer spaced stitch. Also use a small gauge blunt tipped needle if you can find them (these are sold for machine stitching as needles for knit fabric). The idea with a blunt needle is that it will push its way between the threads of the weave instead of breaking the threads. Having stitches too close together (stitches per inch) essentially creates a perforated line that can tear under pressure.

Pleased to hear that you are enjoying your Gearlab paddle. I have had a GL Akiak for 3 years now and love it. It had been frustrating to have to take a standard blade break down paddle when I traveled because my beloved cedar Greenland paddle was one piece.

Tip for storage and transport of the carbon paddle: I picked up a foam padded soft zip case for a shotgun (it is a girly pink camo print, no less!) at a discount store for $11 and it fits the broken down paddle perfectly. Looks like you can get them in more manly colors for $20 to $30 in various places.

Kerry
Current:
Feathercraft Wisper
Pakboat Quest 135
Pakboat Puffin 12
Pakboat Swift 14
Greenland SOF
P & H Easky 15LV
Curtis Lady Bug solo canoe
Previous:
Feathercraft Kahuna
Feathercraft K-1 Expedition
Pakboat XT-15

siravingmon
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Re: split in Quest 135 deck coaming support

Post by siravingmon »

Hi Kerry

I couldn’t get the aqua seal to work properly so in the end I used Bostik extra strength glue, similar to uhu. You apply it to both sides, let it almost dry so it’s only tacky then push the two parts together. The joiner is so strong I haven’t even bothered to use stitching or backing cloth behind yet

PS thanks for the tip on the shot gun case
Simon

Feathercraft Wisper, Firstlight 420, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, KXone Airrow 17, Nautiraid Geenlander 1, K1, 416, Narak 460 (sold my 550), Pakboats Quest 135, TRAK 2.0
Cape Falcon F1, Beth, Hobie AI
AE Air Fusion Evo wanted, Incept k40 for sale

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