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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:44 pm 
First time up was yesterday, 8.23.08. I positioned myself so the bow was downwind, placing the poles on the pegs was easy enough.

The wind was about 10mph with 15 mph gusts at times. This small lake is surrounded by trees, it often has only a light breeze, but not today.

I realized the the alu. plate went under the front cowl and that was held with the sprayskirt bungee. A steady wind was rocking the sail left to right. That was odd. I intend to widen the base plate to prevent the rocking.

I did try to tack at 30&45 deg settings, which would never get me back to port but it was making progress.


A strong breeze with the hull and sail in an odd position (since I was trying various techniques) pulled the mast peg up and at an angle. Not good. I pulled the f'glass poles with a little bit of effort and bungeed it.

Going back for more today.

gary/N. Ohio


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 7:05 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister
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Hi Gary,

Hope your outing today went a little better. We had some brisk winds down here in Atlanta today thanks to the tail of Tropical storm Fay. I took advantage of the day and put in at a small lake near here. Nice chop and brisk winds allowed me to fight some head winds, side and tail winds out in the middle just for fun and practice. This K-1 is a wonderful boat. :D

Chris

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:33 pm 
pinetar wrote:
I realized the the alu. plate went under the front cowl and that was held with the sprayskirt bungee. A steady wind was rocking the sail left to right. That was odd. I intend to widen the base plate to prevent the rocking.

Deck fabric doesn't provide much support, so the mast base is sitting on the deck stringer, held down by straps. May be for a sail that big you need to make a saddle similar to the one that I made for Pacific Action sail http://foldingkayaks.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=133. This way you'll have a wide saddle and short straps, rather than small saddle and long straps. Can be 1/8" aluminum or 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood hinged in the middle. My saddle sits on both gunwales (and deck stringer too). You can attach the mast base permanently to the saddle and strap the saddle to the D-rings with short straps. Doesn't have to be the whole mast base that you have - use only the top smaller base to attach to the homemade saddle. Try and install the mast base on aluminum saddle at such a location that the metal "tongue" could still be used, though it's not crucial with a wide saddle and short straps.

As you can see on the photos, in my saddle the distance from D-rings to cleats is almost zero, so there is no lateral movement at all. Rear ropes are used to prevent some longitudinal movement of the saddle, and also to keep the rear edge from lifting up.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 6:21 pm 
Yes, I will be doing something similiar. I have 4 & 8mm Alucobond, sign making sheeting available. It has a pvc core sandwiched with .030 alum sheeting top and bottom.

I will try to retain the tongue.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 7:23 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister
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Location: Stone Mountain, Ga. U.S.A.
Alex,

I noticed in one of your pictures that you installed an extra 'D' ring and patch on the hull. Where did you find these and did you use Aquaseal to affix them?

As always, D rings can come in handy. I could use one more on each side.

Chris

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Wilderness Systems Cape Horn 150


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 1:46 am 
kayakamper wrote:
Alex,

I noticed in one of your pictures that you installed an extra 'D' ring and patch on the hull. Where did you find these and did you use Aquaseal to affix them?

I made them of the FC urethane hull material and webbing loop sewn+glued to the outer surface of the patch. The patch itself is glued to the hull with Aquaseal, - yes. Had to buy 1" stainless D-s in local boating store. I needed them to attach the aft-mounted Balogh sail rig. NRS and others sell Vinyl or Hypalon D-patches (D-s complete with patches), but nobody has them in urethane and D-s are often too large.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:27 am 
lord high faltbotmeister
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Location: Stone Mountain, Ga. U.S.A.
After writing I found this as well :http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp?pfid=1463&deptid=1080
Looks like the right size and has a neoprene base that should be compatable to Aquaseal and eurethane, but I wonder how thick it actually is being bonded to hypalon and neoprene.

Your idea looks better, but not sure how good my sewing is.

Chris

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"No matter where you go, there you are."

Wilderness Systems Cape Horn 150


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:56 pm 
[img]hi
we use a bent aluminium tube. about 6 mm diameter. v-shaped in length to match the deck form. from side to side, fixated by the d-rings at the side.
underneath the sail-base.
it works great. no flexing of the deck anymore but a straight connection with the gunwales


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:57 pm 
hi
we use a bent aluminium tube. about 6 mm diameter. v-shaped in length to match the deck form. from side to side, fixated by the d-rings at the side.
underneath the sail-base.
it works great. no flexing of the deck anymore but a straight connection with the gunwales


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2008 7:58 pm 
sorry for the double post.
i tried to add a picture of the spirit sail base on a K1


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2008 1:30 am 
kayakamper wrote:
After writing I found this as well http://www.nrsweb.com/shop/product.asp? ... eptid=1080
Looks like the right size and has a neoprene base that should be compatable to Aquaseal and eurethane, but I wonder how thick it actually is being bonded to hypalon and neoprene.

Your idea looks better, but not sure how good my sewing is.

Chris

Aquaseal adheres to both neoprene and FC hull material, so this should work. I only don't like neoprene where it's not needed. This must be for use on diving suits. Neoprene is elastic - and I didn't want my D-patch elastic, and neoprene has something like fabric on the outside - I don't like this too. And you're right, there is a question how well this neoprene layer is bonded to webbing and hypalon. Will look more obtrusive too, due to neoprene thickness.

There is not much sewing - just a square 1" x 1", and sort of an X. But it was difficult with a regular needle. Hull material is hard, cured glue makes it more difficult (and sewing through the fresh glue is messy). IIRC, I made the loop first - glued webbing to webbing, and then webbing loop to the patch, before sewing all this through. Shouldn't be a problem with a sewing awl :oops:

Diederik; you can't post images on this forum, but you can link them. It should be posted elsewhere, then you copy-paste image URL between two tags: img and /img . You can post images in the Photo Gallery if you like.


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