Folding Kayaks Forum

Since it's supposidly only a matter of time before my bearings drop out again (Yes the mental one too ), -see earlier post. I'm wondering if sealed bearings wouldn't work better? There has to be a reason the manufacturer didn't put them in originally, whether it's cost saving or internal corrosion. If they were sealed hubs like Campangnolo uses, you'd even be able to pump new grease in through a port, thus pushing the old contaminated grease out.

I'm even thinking bronze bushings with plenty of grease (like the old pioneer Conostogas, -only their bushings were iron) would be better.

I'm also thinking a cradle that runs with the longerons would be better as hopefully this would keep the cart from twisting or collapsing.

-Andreas

Andreas,

On the Northern tool wheels that Alex and I have,
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/ ... 3794_13794 there are actually two cheap bearings per wheel and press fitted into the plastic. Mostly they work well, but as Alex has noted, they rust up quickly. I noted when mine popped out that there is a 3/4" ( approx. I didn't measure it yet ) hole in the wheel hub beyond the bearing seats. I have thought of finding a brass bushing that will fit and have a 1/2" hole for my shaft. That might solve a lot of problems and they could be spray greased with CRC White Lithium Grease or Boshield.

Chris

A bushing that size may be as close as your local hardware store. I'd look for a nylon bushing, actually, and you may be able to find a press-in one at a good sized hardware store.

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Michael Edelman
FoldingKayaks.org Webmaster

Don't worry about rust if you are paddling inland bayos and rivers. I had some rust after I dipped the entire wheel in sea water (to rinse the sand out). And this rust was easily removed by green dish scrub (externally), and after dipping the bearings in a shallow plastic cap (after honey) filled with mineral spirit, a lot of rust came out from inside, like a brown cloud. And I neither cleaned nor lubricated them before, for more than a year. Now they are protected with Boeshiled. There will be very little rust if you don't dip the bearing in sea water. Rinsing the bearings in mineral spirit at the end of the season and applying Boshield should be enough. These bearings are cheap, all right - but only because made in China. This bearings/hub/tube/tire assembly would've cost $25-30 per one wheel, if it were made in the USA (wth same non-stainless bearings).

I couldn't find any bronze or plastic bushings that would fit these wheels, and couldn't find any stainless bearings of that size. You might consider Paddleboy wheels (have no idea where to buy the actual wheel separately) - they have removable bronze bushings with 3/8" bore, - but then the axle would have to be 3/8". But then... why not just keeping that Paddleboy cart... Another option - there are golf-cart wheels with tire diameter 9" or 11" and plastic bushings 1/2" bore. Your golf-cart shown on the photo looks different - but you may find the right one for $10 or 15 on garage sale. I did.

PS: if you sand/file/machine that axle just a little bit more - it will slide freely in and out, and bearings of those Northern Tool wheels won't fall out of the hub.

Alex, as usual, I'm going with your good suggestions . 1)The Northern tires are cheap enough, but not so cheap that they would fall apart after a couple of uses. 2) Keep clean and lubricate as you suggest. 3) forget the bushing idea and use these bearings with a smoother polished shaft .

If I need to replace a wheel later, I think I can afford another. Overall, I am pretty happy with the cart. It packs well in a dry bag and could strap to the deck if I am out for a trip.

Chris

Saw this cart at REI today. Despite its looks, It was very light and folds up small. With proper wheels..........

http://www.rei.com/product/737715?vcat=REI_SEARCH

I know I am beating this subject to death, but if the right cart ( light weight, good carying capacity over all terrains and small storage space ) is out there, the ultimate carry along cart would be very handy. Here is the Washburne site:

http://washburnemarine.com/WMP.asp

The rest of the site is quite entertaining as well!

Chris

Good idea, the white nylon spacer/bushings might be better than bronze on bronze. To some degree they would self lubricate and even if they were completely dry (no grease or oil) they probably wouldn't squeak or squeal. The only potential down side I see is that some oils can cause them to swell and bind. (Wisdom I gained in a former incarnation as a sewing machine engineer )

-Andreas

These are 7" or 8" wheels - they cost $5 or so at Home Depot, and good for nothing. Feahtercraft makes their brandname cart with these wheels, btw.

If you buy it and replace the wheels with NorthernTool... And then replace the plastic craddle with webbing strap or hammock... You'll arrive to something close to what you've made (and closer yet to what I've made). Why bother buying?...

<<<<<You'll arrive to something close to what you've made (and closer yet to what I've made). Why bother buying?...>>>>>

Not interested in buying....I am done with carts for a while....just liked this one, or at least the idea of it.

He has an interesting website as well ( the inventor/manufacturer )

http://washburnemarine.com/WMP.asp

Chris

I use a Klepper cart for my Kahuna as I frequently do long portages. I changed the Klepper wheel/bushing system out for some 7 inch diameter inflatable wheels with bearings that fit the shaft of the Klepper cart perfectly. They are not sealed bearings. After a salt water trip they gradually assume that protective coating of iron oxide. Thing is they are 27 bucks a pair from Northern Tool and you are back in business.