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PostPosted: Fri Oct 19, 2012 9:26 pm 
Brotherhood of the Golden Paddle

Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:05 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: South Salem, NY
I was fooling around in my T9 back when the water and weather were still warm... and I broke the rear deck spar by sitting on it... dumb. So if you do a cowboy rescue with your T9 be conscious about spreading out the weight on the rear deck.

The shame is that this is a fine piece of T9 engineering and it breaks my heart a little that I broke it. It's also not going to be that easy to fix as there is a fair bit of shaping and rivets to be dealt with.

First question: this original piece is made of seven-ply wood... where am I going to find that? What might be a good alternative solid wood replacement?

Second: the rivets on this piece are fairly heavy duty. I think the side with the smaller head is the one to cut, but I'm not sure how to cut it. My neighbor, a former truck mechanic, thinks I should cut the heads with a grinder or a hacksaw. A while back I purchased a couple flat tipped drill bits to change some rivets on the AII frame. I guess I'm tempted to find a drill press and try this route. I just don't want to damage the surface of the surrounding aluminum at all if possible... Actually, now that I think about it, I might try and find a machine shop and have them drill the rivets out... that might be my best bet. Maybe a shop could even put the new rivets back in.

Any thoughts?

I did send an email to Klepper Rosenheim and they responded very quickly, unfortunately no T9 spare parts laying around the warehouse.

Here are a few pics of the broken part.

Image

Image

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 20, 2012 12:44 am 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Fri Oct 07, 2011 1:51 pm
Posts: 628
Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
Just a warning based on my my sometimes negative experiences with trying to find machine shops for one-off precision work: they won't necessarily do a better job than you would, as long as you centre punch the heads before you drill them, your drill is well centred in the chuck and the job is well fixed.

Reasons for them stuffing up a job may range from they don't care, to the good guy is too busy so the young guy who just arrived gets to do it, to they're not experienced in repair work, to they're not actually precision engineers and mostly do just batch work :( Unless you've seen good examples of one of precision repair work they've done, I'd be very wary about handing over any irreplaceable components...

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 7:42 am 
Site Admin

Joined: Thu Apr 14, 2005 12:34 pm
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Location: Southeast Michigan
Since the wood is already broken, you don't have to drill the rivets. You can hacksaw them. As for the wood, you can look for a place that sells marine plywood, or maybe a boatshop has a small piece they could sell you. Or you could laminate up two (or more) pieces of thinner ply with a reinforcing layer of glass or graphite, or some other solution. Solid wood won't be as tough.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 6:13 am 
faltbootemeister
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Joined: Sat May 12, 2007 6:38 am
Posts: 194
Location: NW Ohio
Dennis, sorry about your bad luck. If you'd like, I can send a drawing of that piece on my T-9 so you have the correct dimensions for the new part. I probably don't need to say this, but get marine-grade plywood for the replacement part.

I have a broken rib on my Pouch e-65 and am looking at a similar repair job. The job itself doesn't look too hard, just finding the time. If I get around to making the repair before you do, I wouldn't mind send a piece of ply for your Klepper. That said, I've been looking to do this job for a year now ....

Barry

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2012 3:53 pm 
Brotherhood of the Golden Paddle

Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:05 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: South Salem, NY
Hi guys, thanks for the response, we got hit by Sandy and I just got my regular internet back last night.

Michael, of course, hacksaw... I can go right through the wood and never touch the fittings. Thanks, I'll do that.

Barry, definitely marine grade ply, I have a local source, just not sure if they have the nine ply... that's a lot of layers!

If you don't mind making a tracing, that would be great. I need a little incentive to start work on this. I'll let you know what I end up with wood wise. By the way, if you can come up with a CAD drawing there's a place close to me in Stamford, CT that will do precision cutting into any plywood. The problem is getting the physical shape into a CAD file.

d

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 21, 2012 2:21 pm 
lord high faltbotmeister

Joined: Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:05 am
Posts: 857
Location: atlanta, georgia
d,

Glad you made it back from Sandy, hope you lost no more than time.

You should be able to find the ply in 7 and 9 layers, here is a supplier but your local marine store might have a scrap piece that will work:
http://www.boulterplywood.com/MarinePlywood_4.htm
Take the time to dip or spray with coats of varnish before refitting the hardware.

Also, if you can't get a saw blade on the rivets on the unbroken end of the piece you should not worry about drilling the rivets. Just use a center punch, then start with a small bit, then use the correct size for the hole. Easy.

Best,
g

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 10:39 pm 
Brotherhood of the Golden Paddle

Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 10:05 pm
Posts: 1406
Location: South Salem, NY
Greg, thanks for that link, I'll probably try and find something local first - hopefully a nice scrap piece and not an entire sheet.

You and the other guys here are right, a good center punch followed by a small drill bit to make a guide hole should do the trick. My worry is in damaging the sides of the aluminum piece itself - easy does it will be the phrase of the day. For the hinged piece I will simply cut through the center of the rivets running the hacksaw parallel with the layers of ply. The hardest part of all will be finding the time and energy to do it...

Been out sailing?

Dennis

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