Folding Kayaks Forum

Just assembled my new Narak for the first time (rudderless version).. It's the first folding kayak I've ever put together and I learnt a lot along the way, so let's just say I 'm still a looong way off the quoted 25 minutes...

I like the way that the 2 final, central bulkheads on each frame half act as levers to facilitate stringer location when rotated into place. Once I worked out that I had to do this after, not before the 2 halves were not only in the skin but also joined together (I couldn't glean this from the vestigial manual) it was a lot easier to put the kayak together.
The other trick I learnt was to lever the central half bulkhead into place using the top 2 skin mount holes as a fulcrum to locate the stringers before clipping the half bulkhead onto the bolt head in the keel – I tried doing it the other way round first but couldn't, and pulled out the 'bolt headed nail in the keel in the process. I also learnt (the hard way) that you need to get the skin absolutely central on the keel to get both coaming bolts to fit.

There are two points I could do with help with, however. The first is that, once the Narak was assembled, I still had two short straps with plastic buckles left over.( buckles for connecting to other straps, not the bayonet type) Any other owners know what these are for?
The other thing I'm still not clear on is how the seat back is kept up. I presume I'm supposed to loop the string from the back of the seat through the two loops on the skin just under the back of the coaming, but there's a cleat on the back of the seat just above where the string is attached that is clearly for a much much thicker cord (perhaps for the sliding luggage system?) – any help with this would also be much appreciated.

The Narak seems very well made apart from the small plastic model number plate just under the coaming, which was already broken when the kayak arrived. It's a beautiful looking boat IMHO once it's together, though quite high at the front and with almost no rocker, at least not when assembled on my living room floor

Simon

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Simon

Pakboats Quest 135, Nautiraid Narak 460, 416 & K1 (sold my 550), First light 420, Feathercraft Wisper, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (for sale)
Non-folders: Cape Falcon F1. Beth sailing canoe, 2014 Hobie Adventure Island

Agree that the manual is a tad unclear. Also had problems figuring out some parts of what you describe for the assembly.

Trying to vision the things you ask about.. Are those attached to the seat? Might be the ones for the "Heel support pole" when using a rudder.. I guess you'll be using the wooden board instead for rudderless foot support.

The seat's back support attaches on the sides, and then with a string that is looped around the back bulkhead and tightened throught the cleat. But mine actually broke, so I screwed on a beefier strap. .

If you upload some pics of the areas you haven't figured out, I can probably help and explain better.

Attaching a pic of my first assembly in the hall-way of my flat



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Thanks for getting back- the cleat worked ok on my first outing and I attached the cord to the frame as you suggested. I didn't need the extra straps in the end so you're probably right about them being for a rudder, which I don't have and didn't miss first time out. I was pleasantly surprised by how good the stability is, how fast it is and how long it glides for . Weight and bulk is at about the limit for me for public transport, but I can manage it.

One small thing to watch - when I washed the skin in the bath afterwards I noticed that air leaks from where the front and rear handles attach to the skin. I think I'll put some seam sealant on and stop using the handles. They're sown on the 'wrong' way, so that any load has the effect of opening the seam.

Simon

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Simon

Pakboats Quest 135, Nautiraid Narak 460, 416 & K1 (sold my 550), First light 420, Feathercraft Wisper, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (for sale)
Non-folders: Cape Falcon F1. Beth sailing canoe, 2014 Hobie Adventure Island

Finally cracked Narak assembly so that it's now a piece of cake and relatively stress free.

Perhaps other owners already know the solution to this, but I've always found the really, really hard part to be swinging the last 2 full central bulkheads into place on the stringers (the two bulkheads just fore and aft of the cockpit). The front one in particular can be a complete pain in the neck to keep on the stringers while rotating it into place.
For the benefit of anyone else who hasn't worked this out yet, the secret is to fit the central half bulkhead BEFORE fitting the front and then the back central full bulkheads. Once you do it that way it's so easy. Felt pretty dumb for not having worked this out earlier but it's only the 6th time I've had it out See my original post for my take on the best way to fit the central half bulkhead

The hardest part is now fitting the cockpit beading into the groove in the wooden coaming, and that's not that difficult

Simon

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Simon

Pakboats Quest 135, Nautiraid Narak 460, 416 & K1 (sold my 550), First light 420, Feathercraft Wisper, Fujita Alpina AL-1 400, Incept k40 (for sale)
Non-folders: Cape Falcon F1. Beth sailing canoe, 2014 Hobie Adventure Island

Aha! Great tip! Thanks!

Haven't thought about that option actually, and last few times I've been struggling quite a bit on the exact stage you describe.

Actually, last assembly, I even cracked the back bulkhead when using too much force.. I've glued it, but need to put in a re-inforcement piece also..

...
..I'll probably get that FC seasock now also, finally. And then I need to replace the lines for the rudder, they wore out surprisingly fast, perhaps against some rough edge.

Need to get in some kayaking between now and Mid-May, when I put the sailboat back into the water ,I know that will get most of my attention ..