Folding Kayaks Forum

The user forum for FoldingKayaks.org
It is currently Wed Oct 17, 2018 7:47 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Fri Aug 22, 2014 1:01 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:09 pm
Posts: 281
6. Inflate the lowest air cell on each side. Slide in the two air tube support rods (a little shorter than the gunwales, with black plastic end plugs at both ends) from the bow, one on each side of your Quest. The rods should be inserted on top of the inflated lower air cell between the air tubes and the cross ribs. Two short rods (see picture on right) get added between the gunwales and the keel (22”, 55 cm back from the bow). Unlock the Locking C-clip and connect the rod to a gunwale through the opening in the kayak skin. Connect the other end to the keel. If it is tight, move the bottom (keel) end back so the rod is at an angle. Then connect to the keel and push the bottom end forward so it is perpendicular to the gunwale. Lock the Locking clip. Repeat with the other support rod on the other side. Inflate the rest of the cells. The lowest cells should be centered on the bends of the cross ribs. Do not inflate the tubes to full pressure until the tubes have been positioned correctly. A good pressure is what you can easily produce with the Quest pump. The hull is now fully assembled.

7. Locate the seat parts. To assemble the seat, insert the ends of the short tube stubs at the front of the seat into the end of each of the side rails (the end that is well away from each side rail's plastic clip). Turn the side rail so that the plastic clip faces away from the seat. Place the clip on the seat's rear cross tube on the side rail behind its plastic clip. Turn the side rail so that its plastic clip is positioned on top of the seat's cross bar. Repeat on the other side of the seat. Your seat is assembled. Install the seat by placing it on the brackets attached to the cross ribs. The front of the seat should be supported by the center cross rib. Straps under the seat keep the seat centered. Run each strap to the side, around the seat's side rail and back to the buckle. Adjust the straps to center the seat.

8. Place the deck on top of the hull, oriented so that the aluminum parts attached under the deck are towards the bow and the back band towards the stern. Position the deck so that the ends of the Velcro tape on deck and hull match. Set a few inches of the Velcro on each side of the hull to secure the deck in position. Move to the stern. Pull the deck tight (towards the stern) and set a few inches of the Velcro at the stern. Move to the cockpit area, set the Velcro on one side of the hull, moving from the center towards one end, then from the center to the other end. Repeat the process on the other side of the hull. If the deck seems tight, it may be helpful to put the hull on its side and lean on it a little to compress the hull.

9. Fold the bow end of the deck down over the bow and fold in the sides so they rest snugly against the sides. Fold the end cap up to cover the deck. Tuck the extra end cap fabric down next to the sides of the hull. Place the end cap plate with the handle flat on top of the deck and the plate with the openings on top, feeding the handle up through the largest opening and the steel ring through the smaller opening. Feed the strap on the end of the handle through the steel ring (from back to front) and attach to the buckle under the handle. The end cap and handle are now secure.

10. Repeat the process described under 9. at the stern. Please note that the stern end cap is shaped differently to avoid interfering with the optional rudder. The process is almost the same, but the end cap's “tail” should wrap around the stern and attach to a Velcro patch on the outside of the edge of the deck.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Aug 23, 2014 7:36 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:22 am
Posts: 394
Location: Coastal New Jersey
It was this same sat of instructions for the Quest 135 that had me change my mind about buying the Quest and ordering the Feathercraft Kurrent instead. Assembling a Feathercraft had its quirks but the Kurrent is a very simple design and the assembly very straight forward.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2014 5:58 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:09 pm
Posts: 281
Jake wrote:
It was this same sat of instructions for the Quest 135 that had me change my mind about buying the Quest and ordering the Feathercraft Kurrent instead. Assembling a Feathercraft had its quirks but the Kurrent is a very simple design and the assembly very straight forward.

Really? These instructions actually seem pretty straight forward to me. I know they're very detailed, probably in effort to minimize possible mistakes, but it doesn't seem that complicated at all to me. There aren't that many parts, which is really nice.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 7:35 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:22 am
Posts: 394
Location: Coastal New Jersey
You're right, Apathizer, the instructions are clear enough. It just seems to me that the assembly might take more time than I want to spend. The Kurrent takes me about 30 minutes and that's the max amount of time I'm willing to spend assembling any folder.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Aug 27, 2014 11:38 pm 
knight of the folding kayak realm

Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2011 6:09 pm
Posts: 281
Jake wrote:
You're right, Apathizer, the instructions are clear enough. It just seems to me that the assembly might take more time than I want to spend. The Kurrent takes me about 30 minutes and that's the max amount of time I'm willing to spend assembling any folder.

We're just speculating, but with practice a sub 30 min assembly appears very reasonable. I know it was taking siravingmon about 30-40 min to assemble his Quest 135 - I wonder if he's gotten faster with practice?

I can only compare these instruction to the Folbot Cooper (the model I once had) and the Quest appears to be a bit simpler. After I was familiarized, Cooper assembly took me about 25 min, so I would imagine Quest assembly might be a bit faster.

I'll probably find out this winter. I'll probably order a Quest 155 and spend some time assembling and disassembling it, and otherwise getting to know and understand it's design before hitting the water in spring.


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group